(Warning: There are a lot of pictures, so grab a coffee cause it will be a long post. Then again, when is it ever short....hehe) 

STEP 1: 

At this point in time, we are not concern about the details around the room, or what is on each elevation itself, but solely on the space. In this rough white card model, you will see that there are not much details on the wall, but rather, constructed purely to see if the space is too small or too large. It also helps establish which walls should be present or made to be "Set and Strike". 

To be honest, I never understood the reason why we had to do this rough model. I took forever to get started because I am a bit of a perfectionist and I kept wanting to finish my elevations and make it as accurate and perfect before I started constructing. Thus even though I said we should not be concern with the details in the room but the space itself, if you look at my rough model, you will see that I still had the skirting, dado, picture rail...etc. In fact, the first rough card model does not even need to be on mount board. It can be made from paper or cardboard. My tutor, Anna, pretty much had to give me the ultimatum that if I did not make one by that day, I am not allowed to go home.  

It was only after I constructed it that I realised how useful it actually is. Because in the end, what you have down on paper is only 2D. But by making a rough model, it becomes 3D and help aid in visualising the space better. It showed me that the estimated space I have given it, is actually much smaller than what I thought it was.If I had not done so, I would still have been bogged down by the details, and the whole time I would be working on top of a fundamental structural mistake. So thanks Anna for forcing me to just close my eye and take a leap!

STEP 2: 

After fixing and getting a better feel of the space (floorplan), it is time to get into the details (elevations). 

To do this, I actually went around doing measurement surveys. I found places with similar fixtures, such as a fireplace and brought my measuring tape there to measure it. I also measured even single inch of my kitchen, from the counter tops to the highest shelf. From there, I am able to make a more accurate guess of the heights and dimensions of the ones on set. 

STEP 3: 

Make another model with the more detailed elevation to ensure that all the smaller measurements line up with one another. PS. Remember to leave a margin next to the walls before you cut them so that it next wall can stick nicely onto it. 

Due to the way the kitchen appliances are all nicely fitted within the counter and the arch above the sink, I assume that the kitchen is a custom built set. Since the rest of the hall are not as detail extensive as the kitchen, I've decided to focus my next rough model on just the area of the kitchen. 

Tip: Do each elevations on smaller sheet of tracing paper. It is much more forgiving and easier to cut. This way you can test them out by lining the "walls" together to see if you are missing anything, or any of the measurements do not add up before starting on your final technical drawing.